Longs Peak, Rocky Mountain National Park, Colorado — August 10, 2009

Longs Peak (14255 ft / 4345 m) is Colorado's most popular fourteener. Its class-3 "Keyhole Route" attracts several thousand climbers every summer, and many of them reach the top of the mountain. We made our day hike to Longs Peak from Denver on a Monday, hoping to avoid big crowd. The plan didn't quite work, because even on that day at least 80 people summited Longs Peak. We left the city a few minutes after 3 AM, and reached the trailhead at 4:45, just in time to grab the last free parking space. We were on the trail at 5 AM. A common wisdom is that one should start much earlier to avoid storms and lightnings, but the weather forecast for that day was good and we could afford a "late" start. By 5:40, it was bright enough to turn our headlamps off, and get our cameras ready.

(Link to thumbnails from this hike).

 

Twin Sisters
6:07 AM
We are reaching the timberline. To the east, one of Twin Sisters peeking above the clouds.
 
The Moon above Longs Peak
6:11 AM
The Moon above Longs Peak.

We are not climbing the peak from this side, we have to get to its back (west) side first.
(m)
 
Near the Chasm Lake junction
6:38 AM
Near the Chasm Lake junction. Longs Peak is on the right.

A small lake that can be seen from the junction is not Chasm Lake, which lies furhter upstream and is not visible from the Longs trail. However, you can enjoy the view of Chasm Lake from the top of Longs Peak.

There is a privy at the junction, and a set of toilets at the end of the maintained trail, just below the Keyhole.
 
Good morning sunshine
6:40 AM
Good morning sunshine!
 
First view of the Keyhole ridge
7:45 AM
First view of the Keyhole ridge from the Granite Pass. Well maintained trail goes from the trailhead to the bottom of the Keyhole ridge. There is no trail beyond the Keyhole, but bull's-eyes guide you well through the rest of the route.
 
The Keyhole
8:38 AM
The Keyhole.
 
On the way to the Trough
8:45 AM
Once through the Keyhole, you first climb uphill, then take a long descent to a large chute called the Trough. It is cold and windy on this east side of the mountain.
 
Glacier Gorge
8:45 AM
Glacier Gorge.
 
Mountains around us
8:45 AM
Mountains around us. I think those are Pagoda Mountain and Chief's Head Peak (left to right).
 
Entering the Trough
9:13 AM
Entering the Trough at 13300 feet. The top is way up, at 13850 feet. Many people are ahead of us, but the only real bottleneck is the Chockstone at the top of the Trough.

The Chockstone is a barrier which prevents you from getting out of the Trough. You have to make some simple technical moves to overcome this barrier. On your way up, you can climb around either left or right side of the Chockstone. On your way back, you can even slide down the middle.
 
On the Narrows
9:58 AM
We got out of the Trough over the Chockstone (not really a chockstone), and reached the Narrows (not really narrow). Finally in the sun again.

It is amazing to see how many people who never had any off-trail experience try and succeed in reaching the Longs Peak summit. I credit bull's eyes, which guide you safely from segment to segment. Why is nobody experimenting with them on a few selected California class-3 mountain routes? (I suspect, purists would be shocked by such a proposal).
 
Pile of rocks
9:58 AM
Over this pile of rocks at the end of the Narrows is...
 
The Homestretch
10:06 AM
...the last challenge: The Homestretch. Child's play for Dom, pure enjoyment for me, lots of fun for Mirna. Stay in the cracks here, and you will find plenty of handholds and foot support on a firm rock.

We made almost a complete counter clockwise circle (actually, a spiral) around the mountain to reach this "weakness" in the summit cliffs (as Gerry Roach would say) that enables a relatively safe access to the top. Note however that in wet weather the Homestretch becomes a bobsled run.
(m)



(Quotation is from Gerry Roach's Colorado's Fourteeners: From Hikes to Climbs, Fulcrum Publishing, Golden, Colorado, 1992)
 
South ridge of Longs Peak and Mount Meeker
10:09 AM
South ridge of Longs Peak. Mount Meeker is behind.
 
Longs Peak summit, 14255 ft
10:20 AM
Family photo at the Longs Peak summit, 14255 ft.
(m)
 
Chasm Lake and Mills Glacier
10:22 AM
Chasm Lake and Mills Glacier.
 
Chasm Lake
10:22 AM
Chasm Lake from the summit plateau.

Somewhere down there is Chasm Lake's trail junction (and the privy), which we passed 3.5 hours earlier.
 
View from the top of Longs Peak
10:22 AM
View from the top.
 
Taking a photo
10:22 AM
I'll take yours if you take mine.
 
Flat top of Longs Peak
10:25 AM
Flat top of Longs Peak.
 
View from the top of Longs Peak
10:28 AM
Nice view from the top.
 
At the edge of the abyss
10:35 AM
Mirna at the edge of the abyss.
 
A little pyramid and a trail sign where the Homestretch reaches the summit plateau
10:37 AM
Time to leave. There is a little pyramid and a sign where the Homestretch reaches the summit plateau. The sign says: "Roll No Rocks". There was not much of the rock rolling today, in spite of many visitors.
(m)
 
Going down the Homestretch
11:01 AM
What goes up must come down. At the bottom part of the Homestretch.
 
The Narrows
11:05 AM
Back on the Narrows.
 
The Narrows
11:07 AM
The Narrows.
 
Exiting the Narrows
11:08 AM
Exiting the Narrows.
 
View from the top of the Trough
11:09 AM
View from the top of the Trough.
 
Southwest ridge of Longs Peak
11:09 AM
Southwest ridge of Longs Peak.
 
At the Chockstone
11:09 AM
Going around the Chockstone.
 
Around the Chockstone
11:09 AM
And going...
 
View of the Trough from the Chockstone.
11:10 AM
...and going. Mirna finds an easier way.
 
At the Trough
11:19 AM
Middle part of the Trough.
(m)
 
The Keyhole from the west
12:03 PM
Reaching the west side of the Keyhole.
(m)
 
Boulder Field through the Keyhole
12:04 PM
Boulder Field through the Keyhole.
 
The Keyhole from the east
12:06 PM
Close up of the east side of the Keyhole.
 
Memorial hut near the Keyhole
12:07 PM
Memorial hut near the Keyhole.
 
Memorial hut is open
12:08 PM
The hut is open and clean.
 
The Keyhole from the east
12:08 PM
Another view of the Keyhole from the east.
 
The Boulder Field
12:09 PM
The Boulder Field from the memorial hut. We have to go down there.
 
In the memorial hut
12:09 PM
There is a shade in the memorial hut. Good opportunity to put more sunscreen!
 
Memorial hut and the Keyhole
12:15 PM
Down the boulders. In ten minutes we will be back on real trail. Then less than six miles downhill to the trailhead.
 

This report does not attempt to illustrate all phases of the Longs ascent/descent precisely. If you feel you need more details, check Allan Ask's excellent report on climbing Longs Peak.

USGS topo map roughly indicates the route around the mountain:

Longs Peak's Keyhole route indicated on USGS topo map

STATISTICS:
Trailhead (9380 ft / 2860 m): 5 AM
Chasm Lake Junction (11550 ft): 6:35 AM [distance from the starting point: 3.6 miles]
The Keyhole (13150 ft): 9 AM [distance from the starting point: 6 miles]
Summit (14255 ft / 4345 m): 10:30 AM [distance from the starting point: 7.6 miles]
The Keyhole (13150 ft): 12 PM (noon) [distance from the starting point: 9.2 miles]
Chasm Lake Junction (11550 ft): 1:40 PM [distance from the starting point: 11.6 miles]
Trailhead (9380 ft): 3:10 PM

Total distance: 15.2 miles / 24.5 km, total elevation gain: 4875 ft / 1486 m, total time: 12.2 hours.

 

A Bit of History

Longs Peak is named for Major (later Colonel) Stephen Harriman Long (1784-1864) of the U.S. Army Engineers. In June 1820, Long and 19 men traveled up the Platte River. Later in the summer they reached the South Platte, and followed its course until the mountains came insight. Long described a massive giant peak which stood out boldly and grandly before them, but they didn't climb it. He simply called it "Highest Peak" on his 1822 map, "Geographical, Statistical and Historical map of Arkansas Territory". In the following years, however, the name "Long's Peak" prevailed. On modern USGS maps, as is usually the case, the apostrophe is simply dropped, and the form "Longs Peak" is what everybody uses now.

The first documented ascent of Longs Peak was made on August 23, 1868, by a party consisting of Major John Wesley Powell [Wes Powell], a one-armed science professor from Illinois, William N. Byers, editor of the Rocky Mountain News, Denver, and John Colton Sumner [Jack Sumner], a tracker and mountaineer. Three Powell's students were also participating: Lewis W. Keplinger, Samuel W. Garman, and Ned E. Farrell. [In a 1906 letter, Jack Sumner says the ascent happened on August 4, 1868]. After two or three days of wearisome and hazardous struggle with ropes and ladders on the south side of the mountain, the party planted the American flag on its summit, and left the usual box of records in a mound, as a mark of their achievement. Several years later, a different route, through the Keyhole, became the main way of reaching the summit. It was heavily promoted by a settler who lived close to the route, Elkanah J. Lamb. In addition to farming, he established a lodge for visitors called Longs Peak House. He, and later his son Carlyle, guided people up and down Longs Peak, charging $5 a trip. Carlyle apparently made hundreds of ascents in the 1880s and 1890s.