Nailing Iron Mountain - July 21, 2008

Iron Mountain is an impressive massife at the southern end of the Ritter Range. Last year we scouted Iron Mountain's northern outskirts searching for the best approach to its 11148 feet (3398 meters) high summit. This year it was time to nail it down. Equipped with ice axes and crampons, Dom and I decided to use a snowfield above Ashley Lake to reach the top. On our way back, we circumnavigated the southern part of the mountain, thus completing the loop around Iron Mountain that we had started last year. Our hike began and ended at Devils Postpile. In twelve hours we made about 20 miles, with some 4000 feet elevation gain. We returned to Palo Alto at 2 am next day. Total driving distance from/to Palo Alto: 540 miles.

For the map of the mountain, check peakbagger.com

More pictures from this hike (no descriptions).

 

Iron Mountain from the Minaret Road.

6:15 am
Early morning. Iron Mountain (center) over the San Joaquin River (Middle Fork) valley, from the Minaret Road. The sky is partially cloudy, and the forecast calls for 20% chance of thunderstorms later in the day. At 7:15 am, we started the hike from the Devils Postpile Ranger Station trailhead, and headed towards Beck and Ashley Lakes.

 
Iron Mountain from a slope of Red Top Mountain.
9:20 am
Getting closer.
 
A creek coming down from Ashley Lake.
9:50 am
Swift stream coming from Ashley Lake. Iron Mountain peeking at the horizon.
 
Basin of the Ashley Lake Creek, with a view of the summit of Iron Mountain.
10:10 am
Ashley Lake Creek, snowfield (center) and the summit of Iron Mountain (right).
 
Beautiful and remote Ashley Lake.
10:25 am
At the beautiful and remote Ashley Lake, 9544 ft (2909 m).

In a heavy snow year, the snowfield reaches from the lake to the top of the ridge even in summer time. This year there was less snow, and we will have to do some scrambling over rocks both at the bottom end, and at the top.
 
On the snow field above Ashley Lake.
11:10 am
Half a way point on the snow field. It is getting steeper, and it is time to put the crampons on.
 
Aproaching the top of the snow field above Ashley Lake.
11:55 am
Yuck! The exit from a partially frozen snow to the ridge doesn't look very attractive.
 
Rocks at the apex of the Ashley Lake snowfield.
12:15 pm
We had to negotiate some sixty feet of steep, wet, slippery, rotten rock at the apex of the snowfield. Ashley Lake is way below.
 
Summit of Iron Mountain.
12:17 pm
Once at the ridge, we see the top ahead of us. A traverse over solid talus, following the southern ridge of the mountain, is enjoyable, with great views towards Yosemite (northwest), Silver Divide (southeast), and Mammoth region (east).
 
A frozen lake just below the summit of Iron Mountain.
12:25 pm
An unnamed frozen lake, nested on a tiny terrace just below the summit of Iron Mountain. Mount Ritter to the north is towering above the Ritter Range and Minarets.
 
Summit register at the top of Iron Mountain.
1:00 pm
Always fun to read notes in summit registers. The ammo box and SPS register were brought here in September of 1996, by Beth Epstein. Not too many people had signed up in the last twelve years, and the register is not even half full. Somebody was here a day before, coming via a different route. In fact, I didn't find anybody mentioning the snowfield above Ashley as their ascent route recently, but I didn't check the notes very carefully.
 
Descending the southwest slopes of Iron Mountain.
1:45 pm
Descending the opposite (southwest) side of the mountain. Alpine meadows are green and bursting with flowers. But water will soon disappear on the sunny slopes and the short blooming season will be over.
 
An old tree on the south side of Iron Mountain.
4:00 pm
Two oldtimers.
We stayed at about 9500 feet, and circled the mountain back towards its eastern slopes. No trail, but it is easy to follow the contour at the edge of timberline. Once we reached a ridge right above Fern Lake, we followed the ridge to the east, and shortly hit the trail coming from Clover Meadow at the Granite Stairway pass. A few minutes after 7 pm, we were back at Devils Postpile parking lot. Long and enjoyable day!
 
 

History

Walter A. Starr (Sr), in his article "A Climber's Guide to the High Sierra, Part II, The Ritter Range", published in the Sierra Club Bulletin, Vol 23, No 2 (Apr 1938), pp 20-32, gives credit to Eichorn and himself for the first ascent on this route:

Iron Mountain (11,163), Route 2—East Face. First class; ice-ax useful. Ascent, August 2, 1935, by Jules Eichorn, W. A. Starr. From Ashley Lake, which lies at the E. base of the peak, ascend directly up the long snow-tongue from head of the lake, or by way of the spur on the S. side of the lake, to crest. Traverse ridge N. to summit. A trail leads to Ashley Lake from Devils Postpile.